• Arm Height: By gripping and lifting on the chain (6) adjust and fix the arm height to the desired level relative to the water surface. Generally the outboard end of the arm should be about at the water surface or a little above it. For floating docks it may need to be a little higher. At no time should the arm be completely out of the water as this makes sliding off difficult aside from putting excessive strain on the arm joint especially when sliding off the arm during launch.
• For entry and launch, maneuver the kayak into position over the arm (3) with the arm usually about 4 to 10” forward of the cockpit although this depends on the shape of the cockpit. Alternatively, the arm should be about 1 to 2 ft. forward of where you step into the kayak—the arm must not be under foot. Prior to step-in the kayak should still be mainly floating.
• Place the paddle on the dock beside the kayak
• With a steadying hand on the top of the mast (1) step into the kayak. At this point the kayak should be in contact with and stabilized by arm (3). HINT: If it is not stabilized get out and raise the arm in increments of one chain link until it is stabilized when you step into the kayak.
• Once standing on both feet in the stabilized kayak let go of the mast and with both hands on the gunnels maneuver yourself to the normal sitting position.
• Pick up the paddle and push off with one hand from the dock in the reverse direction. HINT: Difficulty in pushing off may be due to the arm height being too high.
• The return to dock and exit procedure is the reverse of the above entry and launch procedure. This includes using only the gunnels (not the mast) to bring yourself from a sitting to a standing  position. Do not use the mast as a steadying post until you are ready to step out.
• If you have difficulty lifting yourself from a sitting position to a standing position you may use the following procedure (proven by my wife) to exit the kayak:
  • Bring your kayak up on to the arm (to the same location used for entry)
  • Fasten the “added rope” (this is a big help to keep the kayak from sliding back off the arm)
  • Then wiggle yourself around in the cockpit until you are in a kneeling position facing the rear of the kayak
  • Then crawl on hands and knees out of the kayak onto the dock

• Install two KayaArms  on your dock about 5 ft. apart. Set #1 KayaArm arm at the normal kayak launch/return height where the “V” is approximately just below the water and set #2 KayaArm arm height well below the water surface.

• Maneuver your kayak onto #1 KayaArm as you would upon return from a kayaking excursion where the #1 arm is located forward of the cockpit and #2 KayaArm arm clears the aft bottom of the kayak.

• Procedure for raising the kayak (or canoe) to the storage position onto the two arms:
  • From the kayak aft position grip the aft handle and slide the kayak forward to a position where most of its weight is temporary on arm #1. While balancing the kayak in that position with the one hand, raise the unloaded arm #2 with your other hand to several inches above arm #1 height and then slide the kayak in the aft direction to a location where it is sitting on both arms.
  • From the kayak fore positon grip the fore handle and slide the kayak in the aft direction to a position where most of its weight is temporarily on arm #2. While balancing the kayak in that position with the one hand, raise the now unloaded arm #1 with your other hand to a height matching arm #2 and then slide the kayak in the fore direction to a location approximately centered between the two arms.
  • The above steps #1 and #2 taken together comprise one lift. You may want to do a second lift by repeating steps 1 and 2 to raise the kayak to the desired height above the water.

• Then optionally turn the kayak over and fasten it down onto the arms. Instead of using the bungie straps hooked into the KayaArm chain as shown in earlier photos, I now use ropes positioned snugly around the kayak and KayaArm mast fastened with a Nite Ize Figure 9 rope gripping device which can be purchased online or at a local hardware store.

• And in a northern climate where kayak winter storage is a need you can use the above two KayaArms for that too—see photos below

You Will Need:

• Tide Pulley
• Rope (1/4” polypropylene, twisted type vs braided for low stretch or a length of steel cable)
• Cleat or chain hook
• 7/16” wrench

After attaching the Tide Pulley, swap out the chain for your selected rope. After this you will need to decide where to affix your cleat/hook. The photos show two possible locations for an anchor-cleat or hook for tying off the rope and one photo shows the chain added onto the end of the rope enabling chain link adjustment increments. Some experimentation will be needed to determine the best location for the cleat or hook.

Key considerations are accessibility from the dock and from the water while in the kayak as well as keeping the path clear for entering/exiting the kayak.
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• Remove both KayaArm assemblies from the dock.
• Using one KayaArm assembly as a template install mounting brackets (one set for each arm spaced about 5 ft apart) on a wall as shown in the photos below. The materials (not provided) consist of common items such as short pieces of 2×4, screws and nails. This one time effort for installing these brackets enables quick seasonal mounting and dismounting of the KayaArm assemblies.
• Mount the KayaArm assemblies onto the mounting brackets and adjust the arms to equal heights.
• Place one kayak onto the arms and if needed hang another beneath them.

Christopher Maher of WATERFRONT LODGE CAMP MI-WOK at http://www.adkbyowner.com/listings/VR8019.html has come up with a great idea which will be helpful for some by adding some extra stability to kayak entry/exit using KayaArm. It consists of adding a rope from the kayak seat mount to a dock cleat to keep the kayak from sliding back on the KayaArm arm during entry/exit maneuvers. See his videos at the following links:

How to use KayaArm with the Pungo 120 kayak

How to use KayaArm with the Field and Stream angling kayak

Christopher said “It worked for most folks who visit our camp without the rope, but for some folks the added stabilization with the rope was key. I love your product; it is easy, effective, and so small”.

Experience demonstrates that no covering on the arm works well for most Kayaks. For some hulls to avoid hull marking a covering of inexpensive black polyethylene pipe is very effective. The gentle “V” shape of the arm along with the black polyethylene cover tends to spread the load and thus a concern for possible stiff hull damage has not been observed. But as a precaution in the case of stiff hulls the kayaker should be sure to have the arm forward of the cock pit and not under foot when stepping into or out of the kayak. A polyethylene cover over the arm can consist of the following:

• Cut two pieces black utility grade polyethylene pipe 11” in length. Pipe diameter can be 3/4” but 1” is easier to work with as is utility grade vs thicker grades.
• Slit the two pipe pieces and slip them over the top surface of each wing of the arm.

KayaArm shoe covering:

As with the arm no covering on the shoe works well for most Kayaks. If needed, a 12” long piece of slit ½” poly pipe utility grade slipped over the shoe flange works well. Alternatively, use a couple layers of black electrical tape.